Most visitors to Bhutan begin in Paro. The country's only international airport lies on the valley floor, a few minutes from the town and from Rinpung Dzong, the fortress consecrated in 1646 above the Paro Chhu. Paro town runs along a single main street of painted wooden shopfronts. High above the upper valley, Taktsang, the Tiger's Nest, holds to its cliff, and the walk up to it is the reason many people come.
The valley repays a slower week. Kyichu Lhakhang, among the oldest temples in the country, traces its core to the seventh century; the old watchtower above the dzong now houses the National Museum; and each spring the Paro tsechu fills the dzong with masked dances, ending at dawn on the last day with the unveiling of a vast thongdrel. Westward, the road climbs to the Chele La, close to 4,000 metres, before dropping into the Haa valley. Spring and autumn bring the clearest skies; summer brings afternoon rain and the greenest terraces. The side valleys keep the quiet.