The Costa Smeralda and Gallura
The north-east is what most travellers picture and most luxury hotels occupy. The Costa Smeralda proper — the Aga Khan's planned coast around Porto Cervo and Porto Rotondo — is a stretch of cove-speckled granite where the architecture, all whitewash and arched lines, was invented from scratch in the 1960s to look as though it had always been there. Porto Cervo is the social capital: a yacht harbour, a Piazzetta of designer boutiques, beach clubs and a season that runs hard through July and August. Around it, the beaches are the draw — Capriccioli, Spiaggia del Principe, the pink-sand coves of the Maddalena islands a short boat trip offshore. Inland, Gallura turns to cork oaks, granite hills and wine country around the white village of San Pantaleo, the antidote when the glitz palls.


