The city: Roman stones and Shakespeare's balcony
Verona's set piece is the Arena — a first-century Roman amphitheatre, the third-largest to survive, still standing in pink stone on Piazza Bra and still filled each summer for the opera festival, where audiences light candles on the ancient steps as the sun goes down. From there the medieval city unfolds: Piazza delle Erbe, the old Roman forum turned market square; the frescoed facades and the Lamberti tower; Castelvecchio, the Scaliger fortress on the river, now a fine art museum reached over its swallowtail bridge; and the pink-and-white striped churches, San Zeno chief among them. Juliet's House, with its much-touched bronze statue and a balcony added in the 1930s, is the one tourist crush worth knowing is a romantic invention — the building is real and medieval, the Capulet connection is not. The centre is compact and walkable; the river and the climb to Castel San Pietro give the views.


