Because it packs two thousand years of history into one small, walkable city. Founded as the Roman fortress of Deva, Chester has the most complete city walls in Britain, the unique two-tiered medieval shopping galleries known as the Rows, a grand cathedral, the largest Roman amphitheatre in the country and the iconic Eastgate Clock — with the River Dee, the oldest racecourse in England and a world-class zoo alongside. It is compact, handsome and easy to reach, and works as a short break, a day out or a base for North Wales.

How long do you need in Chester?

One full day is enough to see the heart of it — walk the walls, see the Eastgate Clock and the Rows, visit the cathedral and the Roman amphitheatre, and finish by the River Dee, all at an unhurried pace, since the old town is so compact. Add a second day if you want to visit Chester Zoo, which sits a couple of miles north and is a half-day to a full day on its own, or to use the city as a base for exploring North Wales, which is right on the doorstep.

What is Chester known for?

Its Roman and medieval heritage above all. Chester has the most complete city walls in Britain, the largest Roman amphitheatre in the country, and the Rows — unique two-tiered medieval shopping galleries found nowhere else. It is also known for the Eastgate Clock, a Gothic cathedral, the black-and-white timbered architecture of its centre, the River Dee, Chester Racecourse (the oldest still in use anywhere) and Chester Zoo, the most visited attraction in England outside London.

Is Chester a good base for North Wales?

Yes — it is one of the best. Chester sits right on the Welsh border, so the North Wales coast, Snowdonia and the castles of Edward I are all within easy reach by car or train, while the city itself gives you a handsome historic base with good hotels, restaurants and rail links. Many visitors combine a couple of nights in Chester with day trips into Wales. It is also well connected to Liverpool and Manchester, both under an hour away by train.

When is the best time to visit Chester?

Spring and early summer are loveliest, with flowers out, the River Dee busy and the events calendar — including the racecourse season — in full swing. Summer is liveliest, with open-air theatre in Grosvenor Park and outdoor dining by the river; autumn is quieter but still lovely; and Christmas is especially atmospheric, with markets and candlelit cathedral events in the historic streets. The city walks well year-round, so any season repays a visit — though race days bring crowds, so book ahead.

Boutique Hotels in Chester, England

Walking the layers of history

The single best thing to do in Chester is also free: walk the walls. The most complete circuit of Roman and medieval city walls in Britain runs for about two miles around the old town, passing most of the major sights and giving long views over the rooftops, the River Dee and, on a clear day, the Welsh hills. The natural starting point is the Eastgate Clock, the ornate Victorian clock — built for Queen Victoria's Diamond Jubilee and said to be the most photographed in England after Big Ben — that stands where the Roman fortress once had its gate.

Within the walls, the Rows are Chester's great curiosity: 700-year-old galleried walkways that stack a second tier of shops above the street, a medieval arrangement found nowhere else in the world, now full of independent boutiques and cafés. Chester Cathedral, a former abbey founded in 1093, is worth a proper visit — the medieval choir stalls and stained glass are exceptional, and the adventurous can take the tower tour up through its roof spaces for the view. Just outside the walls lie the Roman Amphitheatre, the largest uncovered in Britain, and the River Dee, where the riverside promenade of The Groves and a rowing boat make for a gentle afternoon. Grosvenor Park, with its summer open-air theatre, is a short stroll on.

Beyond the centre, two big draws are worth a second day. Chester Zoo, a couple of miles north, is among Britain's most visited attractions and a serious conservation institution; and the city's position on the Welsh border makes it a fine base for North Wales, its coast and mountains. For where to stay, the club's choice could not be more central: The Chester Grosvenor, the city's landmark grand hotel, stands on the Eastgate beside the clock and the steps up to the walls, with the Rows, cathedral and river all a short walk away.