Croatia has become a well-known secret in recent years, but we'll show you the quieter parts of this corner of Europe. There are 1,000 Croatian islands adrift in the Adriatic and only 66 are occupied; you can pass hours touring by boat.
Mljet is a small, beautifully preserved island off the southern Dalmatian coast, once home to a 12th-century Benedictine monastery and now divided between forested national park and generous beach. You can pedal through the park to discover its pair of saltwater lakes, or visit one of the villages to enjoy fresh Croatian cooking. The island's eastern end is quieter and more agricultural than the National Park half, ending in the small fishing village of Saplunara beside one of the few sand beaches on Mljet's mostly-rocky coast. PineTree Boutique Apartments sits at Saplunara — six family-owned waterfront units beside an infinity pool, with the on-site konoba Ante's Place cooking Croatian-island dinners from owner Ana's kitchen.
The Croatian coast comes alive from late May through September, when the Adriatic warms to swimming temperature and the catamaran routes from Split and Dubrovnik run their summer schedule. Mljet's western National Park is busiest in July and August; the island's quieter eastern end at Saplunara stays manageable through the season. Late May, June and September are the editorial sweet spot — water still swimmable, restaurants and ferries running, but the cruise-ship day-trippers thinner on the ground. The shoulder-season pricing benefit is real on Mljet specifically: most family-run properties close from November through April, so May and October bookings get the genuine off-peak rate without sacrificing the open infrastructure.
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Croatia, Saplunara
PineTree Boutique Apartments
€408.50
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Two routes. The Krilo Jet catamaran runs from Dubrovnik's Gruž port direct to Mljet's Sobra and Pomena ports in summer, roughly 1h15 to Sobra. Alternatively, drive 50 minutes north to Prapratno on the Pelješac peninsula and take the car ferry to Sobra. From Sobra it is a 15-minute drive east to Saplunara.