The three islands
Malta, the main island, holds almost everything the first-time visitor comes for: the capital, the old walled cities, the megalithic temples, the harbours and most of the hotels and restaurants. It is compact and densely built, an easy base from which the whole island is within an hour. Gozo, a short ferry across the channel, is the antidote — greener, slower, more rural, with its own walled citadel at Victoria, dramatic coastline, scuba diving and a sense of having stepped back a few decades. Comino, between the two, is little more than a single hotel and the Blue Lagoon, a shallow turquoise inlet that is glorious early and overrun by midday boats; go first thing or out of season. Most trips are based on Malta with a day or an overnight on Gozo — the latter worth the extra effort for the quiet the main island has largely traded away.




