
The country and its cities
Most journeys begin in Kyiv, the capital on the hills above the Dnipro — a city of golden domes and grand boulevards, home to the UNESCO-listed Saint Sophia Cathedral and the Kyiv Pechersk Lavra, the Monastery of the Caves, alongside a fierce modern creative and culinary energy. It is the natural starting point, and the place the club lists its Ukrainian hotel.
Beyond the capital, the country opens out. Lviv, near the western border, is the cultural soul of Ukraine — a beautifully preserved old town of Habsburg façades, coffee houses and churches, with a UNESCO-listed centre and a romance all its own. South lies Odesa, the great Black Sea port, with its grand opera house, its sweeping Potemkin Steps and a famously freewheeling spirit; and in the far south-west rise the Carpathian Mountains, a region of wooden churches, hiking trails, ski slopes and Hutsul folk traditions. Between them stretch the historic towns of the centre and the wide agricultural plains that long made Ukraine the breadbasket of Europe. It is a country of real scale and variety, with a depth of history and landscape that repays the curious traveller.
Ukrainian culture is generous and singular, nowhere more than at the table: borsch, the beetroot soup now recognised by UNESCO as Ukrainian cultural heritage; varenyky dumplings; salo and dark bread; and a wave of young chefs reinventing it all. For where to stay, the club's choice is in the heart of the capital: 11 Mirrors, a design-driven hotel near Kyiv's Golden Gate, founded by the boxer Wladimir Klitschko, with a panoramic restaurant and rooftop over the city.


