
The city and its landmarks
Kyiv's heart is its golden-domed heritage, much of it protected by UNESCO. The Saint Sophia Cathedral, begun in the eleventh century, holds Europe's finest collection of Byzantine mosaics and frescoes beneath its bell tower; across the city, the Kyiv Pechersk Lavra, the Monastery of the Caves, is a vast complex of churches and underground passages above the Dnipro, the spiritual core of the country for a millennium. Between them stand the neo-Byzantine St Volodymyr's Cathedral, the reconstructed St Michael's Golden-Domed Monastery, and the Golden Gate, the restored eleventh-century entrance to the old city.
The modern city is just as compelling. Maidan Nezalezhnosti — Independence Square — is the symbolic centre of the nation; from it runs the Khreshchatyk, the grand central boulevard, and the steep, cobbled Andriivskyi Descent, lined with artists' stalls and the swirling Baroque of St Andrew's Church. The riverside district of Podil is the city's creative quarter, full of cafés, galleries and small bars; the Dnipro itself, with its islands and beaches, is the city's summer playground. Kyiv's museums, its opera and ballet, and a food scene that has reinvented Ukrainian cooking for a new generation round out a capital of real cultural weight.
For where to stay, the club's choice is in the thick of it: 11 Mirrors, a design-driven hotel near the Golden Gate and the Opera House, founded by the boxer Wladimir Klitschko, with a panoramic restaurant and rooftop high above the centre. Central, characterful and warmly run, it is a fitting base in the Ukrainian capital.


